Top 5 Must-Have Accessories For Your Dodge

Top 5 Must-Have Accessories For Your Dodge

You love your Dodge and you would do anything for it. But, without the right accessories in place, you could be leaving your Dodge vulnerable to harmful weather damage, wear and tear, and road debris. I’m going to let you in on a secret – there are a whole array of accessories available that are custom made for your Dodge so that it can be fully protected and continue to look great for years to come.

Whether you drive a Dodge Ram or a Dodge Challenger, your vehicle isn’t tough enough to stand up to all the abuse it faces on a daily basis. It could use a little help. From new Dodge seat covers to floor mats, here’s a list of the top 5 must-have Dodge accessories that every Dodge owner should own.

Dodge Seat Covers
New Dodge seat covers are an absolute must-have for your ride. If you want to keep you interior looking sharp as can be, while also cruising the streets in comfort, pick up a pair of new Dodge seat covers today. It’s amazing how quickly your upholstery will wear down, fade and stain without protective seat covers. Plus, Dodge seat covers are available in a wide array of colors, styles and materials. For maximum comfort, you might select new Dodge sheepskin seat covers. Or, perhaps for more durability, you might want to go with tweed seat covers.

Dodge Car Cover
Bird droppings, sun rays, snow, rain and debris can really do a number on your paint job. When you leave your car parked for a long period of time, especially if it’s outdoors, you should keep it covered with a Dodge car cover. Car covers don’t only protect against harmful elements, dust and dirt, they also help deter conniving thieves from tampering with your ride.

Dodge Floor Mats
When it comes to putting up with dirt, mud and spills, your car’s floors take the brunt of the abuse. In order to keep your carpets looking like new, keep ‘em covered with heavy-duty Dodge floor mats. You can choose from rubber, carpet or all-weather designs. And, you can even choose some with the official Dodge logo sewn in.

Dodge Cargo Liner
Whether you use your trunk to cart around tools, groceries, sporting equipment, plants or anything else, your trunk is subject to a lot of filth and abuse. If you have a trunk space, you need to protect it with a Dodge cargo liner. Cargo liners deliver a layer of defense that keeps spills, dirt and debris from staining or wearing down your carpets.

Dodge Dashboard Cover
Dashboards take a lot of abuse from the sun’s strong UV rays. This causes your dashboard to crack, fade and warp. But, with a Dodge dashboard cover in place, you can keep your dash protected. Dodge dashboard covers come in several different styles and colors, so you can choose one that best complements your car’s interior.

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How to Save Real Money When Shopping for a Used Car From a Private Seller

How to Save Real Money When Shopping for a Used Car From a Private Seller

There are a few major items to check out when buying any used car from private sellers and they are listed below. Follow these guidelines BEFORE you pay the deposit and you will reduce your chances of buying a headache. You want this car to run cheaply, keep its resale value, be reliable and look good. Ready to start?

Look over the car generally first. If you think it is suitable, follow these steps.

Check the Title.

It is no use paying good money for what seems to be a bargain, when in a few weeks or months the car is repossessed due to unpaid debts attached to it. There are several ways to check this out depending on your local circumstances:

1. Check the owner details with your local or state government agency and whether there is money still owed on the vehicle.

2. Some agencies can also advise whether the car has been written off or wrecked, and then rebuilt. Definitely stay away from a car that has been “reborn” since your resale value will suffer when you try to sell it eventually.

Check the Authenticity.

1. Look at the Registration papers and ensure that the registration plates, the chassis number or vehicle identification number and engine number are EXACTLY the same as the Registration details.

2. In older cars look at the chassis number on the car and ensure it has not been tampered with. Make sure it looks genuine – not extra clean and just repainted. This could mean that the number has been tampered with by grinding off the old number and replacing it with a new one. Stay right away from a car in this condition.

3. If the car has log books and/or owners purchase papers all the better. Look through them carefully and check these details against the answers you receive from the questions you ask in 4.).

4. Talk to the owner(s) and ask the following questions. If you notice hesitancy or you think they may not be genuine be very, very careful.

a) How long have you owned the car?

b) Do you know any of the car’s history prior to your purchase?

c) To your knowledge, are the miles or kilometers genuine?

d) What repairs or work have you had done to the car? Do you have receipts for the work?

Check the Car Body

1. Look for rust. This is the major risk when buying second-hand cars. If you are not sure how to do this have a qualified panel-beater or rust repairer check it out. If you want to do this yourself look for the telltale signs of bubbles under the paint or brown/orange color in the following areas:

a) Under the mudguards or fenders.

b) Around each door, especially under the door.

c) In the floor. Lift the mats and carpets if you can, and check out carefully.

d) Around the windscreen, where it meets the body.

e) Around the roof, especially in the gutters.

2. Look for panel damage and/or repair. Do the panels match properly? Is the paint color consistent on every panel? Has the whole car been repainted recently? If it has had a recent paint job, what is it covering? It could be covering cheap rust repair or panel work.

3. Look under the car. Is it straight and clean? If it’s very dirty and the under floor is bent out of shape it could mean the car has had a hard life off the normal roads. This could mean extra stress on steering and suspension components.

4. Look at the paint color. The most serviceable color, and best for resale generally, is white. Darker colors may look good but they show the dirt more and are harder to match if you need minor panel repairs.

Check the Motor.

1. If you are not sure how to do this, have a qualified motor mechanic or your road service organization check it out. If you want to do this yourself look in the following areas:

a) Does the car blow smoke at start up?

b) Is the motor very oily and dirty? Does it look too clean, just washed?

c) Does under the oil filler cap look like the oil is a milky mixture, not black?

d) Does the radiator show bubbles being formed in the water when the motor is running?

e) Are the other fluid levels low?

If any of these problems show up then you may need some more expert help.

Check the Gearbox.

1. Again, if you are not sure how to do this have a qualified motor mechanic or your road service organization check it out. If you want to do this yourself look in the following areas:

Automatics –

a) Is the oil level on the dipstick correct and clean?

b) Does it change gears correctly when driven?

c) Is the gearbox clean and not showing oil leaks?

d) Does it sound OK when being driven or is there a whine at certain speeds?

If you cannot say Yes to these questions you may need some expert help.

Manuals –

a) Is the gearbox clean and not showing oil leaks?

b) Does it sound OK when being driven or is there a whine at certain speeds?

c) Is the gear change smooth and quiet?

d) Does the clutch work properly, with no shuddering at take-off?

If you cannot say Yes to these questions you may need some expert help.

Check the Interior.

Look for these potential problems.

a) Always check upholstery under seat covers – no matter how nice they look.

b) Look for seat belt wear.

c) Do all the gauges and controls work properly?

d) Is the headlining in place correctly, not dropping or coming undone?

e) Does it look cared for, or has it been neglected?

There are other components such as suspension, brakes, air-conditioning and steering that can also cost significant amounts of money to repair or replace, but these are usually serviced by experts.

These are just some basic checks that you can do when looking to buy a used car. Use your common sense. Keep in mind, as with any private purchase, Buyer Beware. If you think you are out of your depth in any of these major areas, it may be better to have the vehicle checked by an expert.

These are just some general tips and hints from my experiences in buying and selling cars over a long period of time. I am passing them on to you to help you with your personal finances. You need to be able to save money wherever you can.

For hints on how to bargain when buying a used car from a private seller see my other article titled “How to Save Real Money When Bargaining With a Private Seller for a Used Car”.

Bruce Hokin has designed a simple budget tool called “5 Steps to Freedom Personal Budget.” It based on his extensive background as a qualified, experienced accountant, manager, consultant and financial adviser. You can download this powerful budget assistant today and be on your way to financial freedom within the hour. It is available at his website www.freedom-personal-budgets.com.

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crying on my birthday?

yeah well its pretty much over now (10 30pm) but today was my 15th birthday..i was looking forward to it all week, first thing in the morning my sister gives me this crappy purfume and was like YOU HAVE YOUR OWN PURFUME NOW SO DONT EVER USE MINE YOU STUPIF B*TCH and kicks me, i get abused by her all the time, but you know on my birthday is kind of a downer. then all i got from my mum were like 2 doller pjs, like wth. then because i was slightly upset that my morning had been so crap i decided to say "oh is that all i get?" and of course she starts screaming at me OMFG YOU UNGRATEFUL B*TCH GOD I WENT TO ALL THIS TROUBLE GETTING YOU A PRESENT YOUR SO F*CKING SELFISH. so as she was happily screaming at me i ran in room and cried and cried for like 3 hours, and she didny give a sh*t to even come into my room to see if i was ok. alothough she came in one time just to yell at me again, then we were having people over, and my mum was like GET READY NOW and i was like no get out of my room and shes like FINE WELL HAVE THE PARTY WITHOUT YOU yep real nice considering that the reason they came was ment to be for me, so then my grandparents arive and as my wonderful mother does, she decides to tell them what a b*tch ive been all morning, and made up a load load of crap to make me sound really bad. anyway i did try to get dressed and go out but i couldnt help but cry oh and btw im really f*cking ugly so having to look in the mirror didnt really help, but in the enddddddd i came out and they all gave me mean looks like jeez cheers for the happy birthdays, then all my mum did was yell at me for everything i did like i asked if she could turn the heater on cause i was cold and shes like OMG YOUR SO LAZY DO IT YOURSELF and she then moved five seats away from me how nice, then the highlight of my day was that we were ment to be going out for tea and mum decided to go "NOPE IM NOT TAKING YOU ANYWHERE, IM GOING TO BED" and slammed the door in my face, like this was at like 4pm, and then everyone else left and i spent the rest of the night crying for like 4 hours, i was seriously so heartbroken, like she doesnt give a sh*t about me, then when i was crying she was like SHUT THE F*CK UP IM TRYING TO SLEEP. like her birthday was like a week ago, i spend 400 dollers on her, i spent the whole day with her and if she wasnt smiling i would always make sure there was a smile on her face, and made sure she had the most amazing day ever, from this i was sort of hoping maybs she’d do the same for me, but guess not. now ive spent the whole night all alone and crying on my birthday, seriously i allready have the worst life, i get bullied and im so ugly, my sister beats me up like every week, and because of all the crap going on im failing a lot of classes, yay.anywayz i also have depression so all day ive just wanted to kill myself or have someone kill me, i hate myself and my stupid life and i actually hope i die. i thought id share this with you all cause maybe there could be a slight chance that someone could make me happy, you can call me winy if you want, i guess it is though, probs no one will even read this but anyway cheers if you do.

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Making Your Toyota’s Interior Last As Long As Its Engine

Making Your Toyota’s Interior Last As Long As Its Engine

Toyota’s are known for their longevity and few other vehicles on the market run as long. It’s not uncommon to see a Toyota with well over 200,000 miles and still going strong.

Many times, though the engine is in great working order, the interior of these older vehicles is in very poor condition. Cracked dashes and torn seats are frequent problems. However, even cars over 20 years old can have beautiful interiors with just a little care over the life of the vehicle.

There are a few things any car owner can do to help maintain the vehicle’s interior over the long haul. These easy steps now will keep your car clean, comfortable and good-looking for as long as you own it.

Dashboard and Console Care
Keeping your dashboard clean and well treated is critical to its longevity. Over time, the console and dash can crack or show stains if not properly cared for.

First, take a warm, wet cloth and gently clean the entire surface area. Remove any visible dust or grime. Next, spray your dash with a dashboard cleaner and rub it in with a clean cloth.

After it has dried, use a vinyl protecting solution on any vinyl areas. Follow the instructions with this solution. Usually it will need to sit for several minutes to be effective.

To clean the console, use a general purpose cleaner. Spray it onto a cloth or paper towel and wipe down the surface. Finally, use a console protecting solution to give an important protective layer to the finish.

It takes several minutes but is well worth the effort. The time you spend now caring for your dash and console will keep it looking like new for many years to come.

Seat and Upholstery Care

The condition of the seats in your car is often the most noticeable way to keep it looking clean and new. Over time, seats and upholstery become damaged by sun, spills and general wear. The good news is, this is one of the easiest parts of your car to care for.

Start by installing a good set of seat covers. Custom Toyota seat covers will fit snugly and protect your car from anything you can dish out. Sun fading becomes a non-issue. Seat covers will also protect from spills, kids, muddy dogs or whatever else might be riding in your vehicle.

In addition, seat covers add a touch of personal style and comfort to your vehicle. A quality seat cover should last for a very long time. Instead of that wear showing on your permanent upholstery, it will be on an easily replaceable cover.

Next, always use rubber floor mats in your car. Rain, snow, beach or mountain, nothing will protect your car’s floor upholstery like good, heavy-duty floor mats. These mats are available in custom sizes for almost all makes and models. Take them out, hose them off and your interior is still as good as new.

A Toyota can certainly last a long time, but don’t make it a car you hate to get into because of its poor interior condition. Keep it comfortable and looking new by giving it a relatively small time and financial investment now. A couple hundred thousand miles from now, you’ll still enjoy driving it.

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SUV Car Cover – Why Your Getting One Is Not a Waste of Resources But a Wise Investment

SUV Car Cover – Why Your Getting One Is Not a Waste of Resources But a Wise Investment

SUV car covers should be one of the car accessories that you need to have and use in order to have more value for your car. The article below will show you why you need a car cover and what are the factors that will help you to select the best among the lots available to you.

Why You Need an SUV Car cover
Your car is an investment as well as an asset, you have spent money to acquire it, and it is meant to serve a particular purpose, thus, you need to take the right steps to protect it and ensure that it last long. Auto covers generally are meant to protect your car; this is what many vehicle owners do not understand. They do not believe that getting a vehicle cover is in any way necessary because they do not see any need for it. But you need to know the following advantages of having and using an SUV car covers.

1. It protect your car body against dust, dirt, scratches, dings, intense heat from the sun, harsh weather and every other thing that can generally affect the body of the car. The rays that come from the sun called the ultraviolet rays affect the paint on your car and when you keep your car outside for many months it will start to fade in color and look dull especially when assisted by harsh environment.

With the constant use of a vehicle cover you can effectively reduce or completely prevent this. The same goes for drastic change in the weather or atmospheric conditions when it moves from the extreme heat to extreme cold. They affect your vehicle color and look which becomes gradually noticeable as you continue to pack your car unprotected.

2. It protect your vehicle interior: SUV car cover will protect your car interiors, that is, the seat, dashboard, floor carpet, head rest, etc, including all the other attachments and valuables you have inside from mould, fungus, etc. Vehicle covers are designed in a way to allow free circulation of air on the car body while protecting against sun and heat. The rays of the sun that penetrate through the transparent glass also affect the leather seats, panels, and the general interior of the car, but your vehicle cover can guards effectively against this.

Generally SUV car cover will make your car to last longer if used effectively and accordingly. There are lots of car covers available today, and you will need to pick your choice out of the lots. You need to get a car cover that will protect your car from all kinds of weather and from intense sun to a wet climate. Just visiting a site or a store where they sell vehicles covers is not enough, you need to know at least the details of each car cover available and the ones that can fit well with your car. The materials of which the car cover is made and the color also matters.

Some vehicle covers are meant for inside use, while some are for outside, for effectiveness, you also need to know the services attached to the products and the company you are buying from e.g., warranty, free shipping, etc. Some companies have made their names in making and selling car cover, because they only come out with quality and durable products for all types of cars, vans, and even trucks.

The prices of car covers too can determine what you can buy. Some of these covers are overpriced at times; you need to know about this so that you do not throw your money about anyhow.

For you to be able to get the best SUV car cover for your car, you need the right information first, on what you are buying more than any other thing. This way, you can always be rest assured of buying right.

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Tips to Maintain Your Car Interiors

Tips to Maintain Your Car Interiors

Maintenance of the upholstery :

Working with kids around and other people your car upholstery is surely be filled with stains. The process in which you can keep your car startling clean is as follows:
Find out the stain whether it is grease, chemical substance, ink or grape juice. Then find out the fabric of upholstery whether it is vinyl, leather, cloth, plastic or what? Try and use a brush with a pinch of detergent and two drops of water. Clean it as if you are dry washing. Do not brush it with excessive force as it worsens the condition of the fabric. Incase the fabric of your vehicle cannot be cleaned with the above stated query then try and ask the suggestion of a storekeeper as to what cleanser should be used for the fabric. There are wide varieties of cleaning solutions available for leather. As far as the vinyl fabric is considered you have range of products in the market to keep it stain and glossy. Try using the cleansers that have strong citrus content, these cleansers have always proven to be effective. 

Tips to repair upholstery :

Incase you are intending to repair the upholstery then it is important that you need to know whether it has been ripped, torn or has come apart from the seat covers. Know what kind of fabric has been used. Check if the cut can be sealed with a tape from bottom or is it possible to use a colored tape from the above so that it can be completely sealed. The upholstery kits will help you and tell what you can do with the kit and in what aspects it will serve purposeful to you. Incase it is required that you need to remove the damaged seat and then it would be easier to repair the upholstery. You can remove the seat depending upon the type of seats you have. Whether they are bucket or the bench sets. However most of the seats have the same procedure for their removal as well as re- installation. For the removal of the bucket style seats you need to move the seat forward and pluck out the bolts which are fixed on to the floor of the car. Then move in the seat backward a bit and remove the bolts attached on to it. Then it is important that you lift the seat up and cut the electrical connectors of the seat. Finally entangle the seat from the base of its car. If required you can move the seat to a protected surface and check as to how the fabric is attached to the seat. Once the seat has been taken out you can repair it with ease.

Sharon Samraj is an expert author, who is presently working on the site Automotive interiors, Soft tops. He has written many articles in various topics like Convertible tops, Auto seat covers. For more information contact Topsandseats.com.

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The McDonnell-Douglas MD-80

The McDonnell-Douglas MD-80

I

Fuselage stretchability, inherently incorporated in the basic DC-9 design, had characterized its program, resulting in four dimensionally divergent, higher-capacity versions, including the initially-elongated DC-9-30 over the baseline series –10/14/15, the subsequent DC-9-40, and the final DC-9-50, the latter accommodating 49 more passengers than the twin-jet’s original maximum.

The DC-9 itself, founded upon the four design tenets of ruggedness, simplicity, reliability, and low-cost, had been McDonnell-Douglas’s best-selling commercial aircraft—so much so, in fact, that it took off or landed somewhere in the world every seven seconds, serving more than 570 cities with some 6,050 daily flights, and by 1979, the collective fleet had carried more than one billion passengers and logged more than 18 million hours with an almost 99-percent dispatch reliability rate.

Its Pratt and Whitney JT8D engine, the most widely used powerplant and numbering in excess of 12,000 units, had not only provided propulsive thrust for all versions of the DC-9, but had also powered the Boeing 727, the Sud-Aviation SE.210 Super Caravelle, the Boeing 737, and the Dassault-Breguet Mercure 100.

Both the DC-9′s basic design and its JT8D turbofan therefore offered the most optimum, cost-effective platform on which to base a larger-capacity successor, which needed to equal the DC-9-30′s range capability, yet exceed the DC-9-50′s economics.

Its fuselage, not having reached its limit of stretchability, lent itself to still higher-capacity accommodation, but its obstacle had been a powerplant of sufficient thrust to maintain acceptable payload, range, and performance parameters for its operators.

Based upon the earlier, two-stage JT3D, which had powered both the 707 and the DC-8, the JT8D, a low, one-to-one bypass ratio turbofan, had first run on April 7, 1961, taking to the skies for the first time on May 1 of the following year mounted to a 707.  Receiving FAA certification on February 9, 1963, as the 14,000 thrust-pound JT8D-1, it had powered the 727-100 before being employed by the DC-9-10 and was subsequently offered in several successively higher-thrust versions, the last of which had been the 17,400 thrust-pound JT8D-17R.

A new-generation variant, providing application for an ultimate DC-9 stretch and designated JT8D-109, had been one of six demonstration powerplants incorporating larger, single-stage fans developed for NASA’s Quiet Engine Program, which had run between 1972 and 1975, and two of its versions had logged more than 50 hours retrofitted to a modified DC-9-32.  Design of a further development, the 18,500 thrust-pound JT8D-209, began in 1974 and first ran two years later, test flown on a McDonnell-Douglas Advanced Medium STOL Transport (AMST) in March of 1977.

Although a new, supercritical wing had also initially been considered, the aircraft, intended for short- to medium-range sectors which entailed higher ratios of climb-and-descent to actual cruise profiles, could not fully exploit such a new design, its benefits resultantly unable to justify its higher development costs.  The existing DC-9 wing, incorporating root and tip extensions and modified high-lift devices, would provide the required performance, economy, and range parameters.

Several initial iterations, mostly based upon the DC-9-50 and all featuring fuselage stretches for higher capacities, larger-area wings, and two refanned turbofans, had included the refan-stretched DC-9-50RS, the refan-super stretched DC-9-50RSS, the DC-9-55, and the DC-9-60, while a DC-9QSF, intended for Japanese operators as an NAMC YS-11 twin turboprop replacement, mated a DC-9-40 airframe with two 18,000 thrust-pound JT8D-209 engines and a two-foot larger wing, enabling the 114,000-pound aircraft to operate from 4,000-foot runways with 120 passengers.

However, cost constraints and design complexities dictated a simpler, more straightforward version which incorporated the longer fuselage, increased-area wings, and JT8D-209 turbofans, yet retained cockpit commonality with all previous DC-9 variants.  Skipping both the DC-9-60 and DC-9-70 sequences, the definitive aircraft, designated DC-9-80—or DC-9 Super 80, to more accurately reflect the intended year of service inauguration—had been launched on October 20, 1977 with the receipt of 27 firm and 13 optioned orders from Swissair, Austrian Airlines, and Southern Airways, along with a letter of intent from LAV Lineas Aeropostal Venezolanas, all of which had been previous DC-9 operators.  Envisioned as a higher-capacity complement to its DC-9 airframe and a replacement for higher-cost tri-jets, it intended to provide service in maturing markets whose environmental and noise restrictions had precluded larger-capacity equipment substitution, the aircraft offering a significantly smaller noise footprint, greater range and capacity, and the lowest seat-mile costs of any comparable twin-jet.

According to then-President of the Douglas Aircraft Company, John C. Brizendine, “In recent years…we have become acutely aware of the need to conserve energy, to protect the environment, and to produce more and more economically efficient aircraft.  (The DC-9 Super 80) is specifically designed to meet the requirements of our industry for years to come.  These include environmental compatibility, energy efficiency, economical operation, and a spacious, comfortable interior.”

McDonnell-Douglas boasted of the aircraft, “The DC-9 Super 80 is a blend of proven design with available low-risk technology for enhanced effectiveness, (but) the remarkable DC-9 reliability and lower operating costs are maintained.”

Although it had been based upon this earlier-generation twin, it nevertheless introduced several advanced features.

A fuselage stretch, attained by means of an eight-frame plug forward of the wing and a single-frame insertion aft of it, resulted in a 147.10-foot overall length, increasing maximum capacity to 172, or 33 more than the DC-9-50 and a staggering 82 more than the initial DC-9-10, and producing the most massively stretched commercial airliner up to that time.  The forward, left, and aft, ventral, exits, both equipped with extendible airstairs, had been retained, but an aft, left servicing door, located only feet from the engine, had been introduced.  Aeritalia of Naples, Italy, manufactured its fuselage panels.

A new, 10.6-foot center section and two-foot parallel-chord tip extensions, resulting in the third dimensionally divergent DC-9 wing, yielded a 28-percent area, 57-percent fuel capacity, and 11-percent efficiency increase.  Measuring 107 feet, 10 1/4 inches, the airfoil, with a 24-degree sweepback at its quarter chord, a 9.62 aspect ratio, three degrees of dihedral, and a 1,239 square-foot area, had been comprised of four per-wing precision-machined skin panels which had been transformed from 14,000-pound ingots measuring 60 inches wide, 15 inches long, and 30 inches thick by the Reynolds Metal Company of McCook, Illinois.  The all-metal, two-spar structure, with riveted spanwise stringers, featured full-span, three-position leading edge slats with a new, intermediate setting to decrease take off drag and improve climb performance at higher gross weights; larger, doubled-slotted, trailing edge flaps which covered 67 percent of the span and lowered the aircraft’s stalling speed; three spoiler panels, the outer two of which were employable as both flight and ground lift dumpers; and ailerons.  All but the latter were hydraulically actuated, while the ailerons themselves were manually operated.  An underwing vortillon fence ensured proper airflow.  Providing 1,520 US gallons of additional fuel tankage, it also offered an increased-area main undercarriage bay.

The variable-incidence, electrically-actuated horizontal tail, spanning 40.2 feet, or 3.6 feet more than that of the DC-9-50, retained the design’s characteristic t-tail configuration and sported assister tab-equipped elevators, while the vertical fin, rendering an overall aircraft height of 30.2 feet, featured a hydraulically-actuated rudder.  It had been 1.4 feet higher than the DC-9-50′s.

Its Pratt and Whitney JT8D-209 turbofan, mounted on either side of the aft fuselage and retaining the original target-type thrust reversers, was based upon the core of the earlier JT8D-9, but introduced a 49-inch wider fan and an advanced, low-pressure compressor, producing 18,500 pounds of thrust along with an additional 750 pounds of automatic power reserve (APR), generated during engine-loss conditions.  The larger-diameter, single-stage fan, driving a larger mass of hot core section-bypassing air, coupled with more efficient hot and cold exit duct intermixing air, and increased sound absorption material in its nacelle and surrounding casing, yielded numerous improvements, inclusive of increased thrust capability; a higher bypass ratio—of 1:1.78 as opposed to the earlier JT8D’s 1:1; a lower exit velocity; an 11-percent decrease in specific fuel consumption; and a significantly smaller noise footprint than that of the medium-range tri-jets it had been intended to replace.

Employing weight-reducing Kevlar-reinforced aluminum honeycomb stiffeners with graphite tape caps in the outer barrel of its nose cowl and its upper and two lower cowl doors, the nacelle, 21.1 feet long, was 4.5 feet longer than the JT8D-9′s and therefore presented engineering challenges relative to its mounting on the DC-9′s, albeit longer, body.

The DC-9 Super 80 retained the hydraulically-retractable, tricycle, dual-wheeled, Cleveland Pneumatic undercarriage, fitted with Goodyear wheels, tires, and disc brakes; Hydro-Aire Mk IIIA antiskid units; and Douglas ran air brake cooling.  The nose wheel was steerable to 27 degrees to either side.

Although the Super 80 retained a common pilot type rating with the DC-9, it nevertheless offered several cockpit advancements, including a digital and flight guidance control system designed by the Sperry Flight Systems Division of Sperry Rand Corporation, which integrated the performance of seven flight control subsystems into two identical digital computers; cathode ray tube (CRT) displays; a digital fuel quantity gauge system; a dial-a-flap system; and Category IIIA autoland capability of 50-foot decision height (DH) and 700 feet of runway visual range (RVR).  A later introduced Electronic Performance Management System provided automatic pitch and thrust to effectuate optimum speed and fuel burn during the aircraft’s climb, cruise, and descent profiles.

The 101-foot-long, “wide look” cabin, featured a broad, contoured, and sculpted acoustically-treated ceiling which blended in with the enclosable overhead storage compartments; aluminum sidewall panels sculpted round the windows; fluorescent lighting; a 19-inch aisle; and five-abreast, two-three or three-two, configured economy class seating, which reduced by half the number of middle seats traditionally associated with six-abreast arrangements.

Interior décor, which varied from conservative, business-oriented appointment to bold patterns and bright colors, was determined by the operator and custom-designed by McDonnell-Douglas whose interior design teams often made trips to airline home countries in order to absorb local culture and customs and then convert that experience into area- or country-reflective motifs.  Wool and wool synthetic blends were standardly used for seat covers and carpets.

Class and seating configuration equally varied according to operator.  A 137-passenger, dual-class arrangement, for instance, entailed 12 four-abreast first class seats at a 38-inch pitch and 125  five-abreast economy class seats at a 34-inch pitch, while single-class densities included 155 passengers at a 32/33-inch pitch, 167 charter seats at a 30-inch pitch, or a maximum of 172 high-density passengers, the latter accommodatable with a single galley installation.

Interior noise reduction was attained by means of an insulating blanket of fabric-reinforced Mylar over fiberglass.  The elongated DC-9 introduced a new pressurization and air circulation system, which replaced cabin air at greater frequencies, and its potable water system featured in-line heaters in all of its water lines.  An increased-capacity auxiliary power unit (APU) ran its environmental control system on the ground.

The aircraft’s longer fuselage significantly increased its lower-deck baggage and cargo compartment volume, whose forward, center, and aft holds respectively encompassed 434, 376, and 443 cubic feet.

The DC-9-80 retained 80 percent of the DC-9-50′s key maintenance features.

Like all of its earlier, shorter-fuselage predecessors, the aircraft had been designed for short-sector, rapid-turnaround, self-sufficient operations from short, limited-facility airfields, with its increased thrust, larger-area wings, self-contained airstairs, auxiliary power unit for environmental conditioning and engine starts, low-to-ground profile to facilitate servicing, loading, and maintenance, and ability to operate two or more sectors without the need for refueling.  Most turnarounds required little more than baggage carts.

With a maximum structural payload of 40,112 pounds, the DC-9-81, as designated in its initial variant, had a 147,000-pound gross weight, although this had been later increased to 149,500 pounds with uprated engines, and a maximum landing weight of 128,000 pounds.  Its normal and maximum cruise speeds were, respectively, Mach 0.76 and 0.80.  Range, with 155 single-class passengers and domestic reserves, was 1,564 nautical miles.

Piloted by Douglas Chief Engineering Pilot H. H. “Knick” Knickerbocker, Project Pilot John P. Laine, and Flight Test Engineer Virginia “Ginny” A. Claire, the first DC-9 Super 80 and the 909th twin-jet to roll off the Long Beach assembly line, made its maiden flight from Long Beach Municipal Airport’s Runway 30 on October 18, 1979 with call sign DACO 80—for “Douglas Aircraft Company 80.”  Following a 25-mile circular, overwater pattern, the long, slender-fuselage aircraft, accommodating 13,100 pounds of test equipment, completed a successful two-hour, 50-minute basic-maneuvers test sortie before landing at McDonnell-Douglas’s Flight Operations Facility in Yuma, Arizona, where the Chief Engineering Pilot concluded, “The ground handling of the Super 80 is even better than the other DC-9s.  It also seemed quite stable in flight…The new engines were faultless, and the reverse thrust was very effective on landing…I believe the Super 80 is a great airplane and will live up to all our expectations.”

The 1,085-hour, million, three-aircraft flight test program, which entailed first flights of prototype N1002G on December 6, 1979 and N1002W on February 29, 1980, led to FAA certification seven months later, on August 26, under an amendment to the DC-9′s original type certificate.

First delivered to launch customer Swissair on September 12, which had operated earlier DC-9-15, -30, and –50 series, it was inaugurated into scheduled service on October 5 from Zurich to Frankfurt, becoming the quietest commercial pure-jet.  Co-launch customer Austrian Airlines, which had equally operated a fleet of DC-9-30s and –50s, inaugurated its first revenue service 21 days later, on October 26, from Vienna to Zurich.

In order to adopt the McDonnell-Douglas designation scheme, the DC-9-80, or DC-9 Super 80, was rebranded the “MD-80″ in 1983, its initial version dubbed “MD-81.”

II

Development of the baseline Pratt and Whitney JT8D-209 engine, resulting in the uprated, 20,000 thrust-pound –217, augmented additional versions, the origin of which had been the 1979 requirement for a short take off and landing (STOL) aircraft to operate within the Japanese domestic market.  A then-projected iteration, designated DC-9 Super 80SF, would have mated the DC-9-40′s fuselage with the DC-9-80′s wing and engines, but the higher-thrust JT8D-217, applied to existing fuselage dimensions, would have provided most of the desired performance.  Resultantly, a second variant, designated MD-82 and first announced on April 16, 1979, featured the uprated, 20,000 thrust-pound turbofans with 850 pounds of automatic power reserve, a 44,024-pound payload, and a 2,050-mile range with 155 passengers.  First flying on January 8, 1981, it received its FAA type certification six months later, on July 31, at an initial 147,000-pound maximum take off weight, although the 1982 option of JT8D-217A engines further increased this to 149,500 pounds, resulting in still-higher payload and range capabilities.

Republic Airlines, the July 1, 1978 amalgamation of North Central and Southern Airways, had been the version’s launch customer, having been the world’s largest DC-9 operator with series –10s, -30s, and -50s, to which its eight MD-82s were eventually added.

The variant had been involved in two unique programs.  The first of these, occurring in October of 1982, entailed the innovative lease of 20 MD-82s to American Airlines, for which McDonnell-Douglas agreed to bear the maintenance and training costs.  This let to the February 1984 purchase of 67 aircraft, at attractive prices and with low cancellation penalties, to be delivered in blocks of ten to 25 airframes, each block of which had been confirmable 24 months before the targeted delivery date.  Becoming the mainstay of American’s short- to medium-range fleet to facilitate hub connections in Chicago and Dallas, the aircraft, configured for 142 first and economy class passengers, ultimately numbered 234, the world’s largest, single-type total outside of the former USSR.

The second innovative transaction occurred on April 12, 1985, when the Shanghai Aviation Industrial Corporation agreed to license-build 25 MD-82s in the People’s Republic of China.

An extended-range successor, designated MD-83 and first announced on January 31, 1982, introduced still higher-rated engines.  The JT8D-219, rated at 21,000 pounds of thrust, featured a redesigned low-pressure turbine, a new high-pressure turbine, aerodynamically improved airfoils, a five-percent increase in thrust, and a two-percent reduction in fuel burn. 

First flying on December 17, 1984, the twin-jet, with a 160,000-pound maximum take off weight, offered a 2,502-nautical mile range, attained by means of 1,160 US gallons of additional, lower deck hold-installed supplementary fuel tanks.  Finnair, which had operated the DC-9-14/15, -40, and –50, served as the version’s launch customer, operating the longest, nonstop MD-80 flight on November 14, 1985, when it covered the 3,406-mile distance between Montreal and Helsinki in seven hours, 26 minutes.  Transwede, of Sweden, inaugurated the first revenue-earning trans-Atlantic flight from Stockholm to Ft. Lauderdale with intermediate stops in Oslo and Gander.

In order to offer a lower-capacity counterpart more suitable to reduced-demand sectors, and to more effectively compete with the 737-300 Boeing designed for this market, McDonnell-Douglas offered the first, and only, dimensionally-divergent variant, the MD-87, which had evolved from its earlier, DC-9 Super XX studies for a 100- to 120-passenger aircraft powered either by Pratt and Whitney JT8D-200 series or CFM International CFM56-3 turbofans and offering a 110,000- to 120,000-pound gross weight.  The variant, with a 16.5-foot shorter fuselage, featured a new, 130.5-foot overall length and had a 38,726-pound maximum payload, or the same as the DC-9-50′s.

Because of the decreased moment-arm of the shorter fuselage, vertical axis control required a larger-area, ten-inch taller fin, visible by the extension above its traditional t-tail mating point and resulting in a new, 31.2-foot overall height.  It also introduced low-drag flap hinges and fairings, a fillet fairing between the fuselage and the engine pylon, and a reduced-drag, blade-shaped tailcone.

Initially powered by the 20,000 thrust-pound JT8D-217B, but later retrofitted with the lower fuel consumption –217C version, the MD-87 had a 2,372-nautical mile range with 130 passengers and domestic reserves, although additional, MD-83 type fuel tankage in the lower holds increased this to 2,833 miles.

First taking to the skies on December 4, 1986, it received its FAA type certificate on October 21 of the following year, and was inaugurated into service on December 17 with Austrian Airlines from Vienna to Zagreb.

The last, and most advanced, of the five versions, the MD-88, reintroduced the original fuselage dimensions and was announced on January 23, 1986 after launch customer Delta Air Lines placed an initial order to 80 of the type.  Offered with 21,000 thrust-pound JT8D-219 turbofans, the version, most closely based on the MD-82, featured increased composite material to reduce structure weight, a new passenger cabin with a wider aisle and modernized overhead storage compartments, and an advanced, glass cockpit, the latter comprised of an electronic flight instrument system (EFIS), a flight management system (FMS), and an inertial reference system (IRS).  It retained the MD-87′s blade-shaped tailcone.

First flying on August 15, 1987 and FAA-certified four months later on December 9, the MD-88 entered scheduled service with Delta on January 5, or just over 22 years after it had operated the world’s first passenger-carrying service with the –14 series on December 8, 1965.  It had also operated the stretched DC-9-30 and the MD-82.

III

The 1,000th MD-80 had been delivered on March 29, 1992, and by December of 1997, 1,150 of the type had been in service with 60 worldwide airlines.  The design, partially succeeded by its advanced, re-engined MD-90 counterpart and Boeing’s own Next Generation 737 family after that manufacturer’s acquisition of McDonnell-Douglas, nevertheless became its best-selling pure-jet commercial airliner, exceeding sales of the DC-8, the Super DC-8, the DC-9 itself, the DC-10, the MD-11, the MD-90, and the MD-95/717, the last delivery of which had occurred on December 21, 1999, when an MD-83 had been handed over to TWA, ending two decades of production.  Combined with the 976 sales of the original, short-fuselage DC-9, it became the third best-selling twin-jet after Boeing’s 737 and Airbus Industrie’s A-320 family, with a collective 2,167 airframes having been built.

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My First Car – Pimpin My Ride

My First Car – Pimpin My Ride

I pimped my first car by accident: literally by accident. My first car was a 1971 dodge challenger and I was driving home from the lake when I spun out and dented the wheel on a cement island. When I bought the car it came with the stock wheels and the tires were fairly worn. I needed to replace the dented wheel anyway so why not go all the way and get a whole new set. Since the wheels were slightly larger then the originals I’d need some new treads as well. This was to be the first of many expenses I would cover with this car. Most of which unfortunately were not of the pimping kind.

I purchased a set of 5 spoke chrome wheels and some Goodrich radials. I was a teenager just out of school so I had a limited budget, which I had just spent. Money from a lawsuit when a truck clipped me: but that’s another story. Anyway I loved how the new wheels looked. After a few days I noticed that the rest of the car looked a little plain compared to those shining rims. I went out and purchased some pin stripping tape and got to work. Several rolls later and just before my fingers seized up I had a nice set of pinstripes. I was quite proud of myself, especially since I was a rank amateur at anything automotive. So I gave myself a pat on the back hopped in my shiny wheeled pin striped ride and laid a nice long patch of rubber to celebrate.

It wasn’t long before I noticed that the interior was looking a bit boring compared to the outside. I loved the stock three-spoke steering wheel but decided to go with a new polished wood steering wheel. I found some great seat covers and completed the interior transformation. Good thing I’d managed to get some overtime at work. So once again I smoked the tires while resting comfortably in my pimping new seat covers with my hands firmly gripped around the varnished mahogany steering wheel.

Things were going great until I pulled up nest to my friend one day. I couldn’t hear him because his car was thumping like herd of stampeding herd of elephants. After he drove off I realized I had to do something about my anemic stock stereo system. Back to work to ask for more overtime. Luckily the mill was actually busy at the time. Well a few weeks later I was tearing out the dashboard and installing my new Pioneer stereo, mounting the speakers in the front doors and the back windowsill, and bolting down the amps and boom box in the trunk. One more time I sat in those cushy seat covers and fired up my pimped out ride. I was rumbling and thumping as I peeled out from the driveway. The neighbors must have loved me then.

Sadly that was the end of my pimping adventures with my first car. After that the old Challenger wanted a little too much attention; brake jobs, blown cylinder heads, new carburetor. I never could keep up long enough to take it that next level. About a year later I sold her.

When my daughter gets her first car and wants to throw in a DVD player with my money of course I’ll just sit her down and tell her “I pimped my first car…”

Lee Connors is a lover of custom cars and has a site for the car enthusiast. Check out Pimpin My Ride at http://www.pimpin-my-ride.com Lee is also the webmaster for US Auction List a seized property auction site where you can save thousands on any vehicle. Check Out http://www.usauctionlists.com

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Why Clean your Car’s Interior?

Why Clean your Car’s Interior?

After getting your brand new Acura car from the dealer, you of course were very excited to flaunt and drive it the way and wherever you wanted. Then, weeks and months after, you notice you feel like experiencing diminishing satisfaction on the car. The excitement you once had when the car was new long gone, you get bored upon entering. Worse, the interior is very messed up — pieces of French fries were even lying on the Acura floor mats and in the spaces between the seats.

Why do you need a clean car interior, when in fact what is seen by the people is only its exterior?

Driving occurs inside the car. The driver, in anyway, must always concentrate his thoughts on the road to avoid accidents. But with messed up interior, half of his concentration will be on the interior and only half on the road. Most drivers still experience accidents though full concentration is given on the road, what more if concentration is both set on the road and in the interior?

Proper car care will make you a responsible car owner and your driving experience more enjoyable.

Much as you take car of your Acura cars exterior, you also need to regularly clean the interior.

Maintaining the cleanliness of the inside of your Acura car makes driving even more pleasurable and helps prevent accidents while your eyes are on the road.

Vacuum cleaner and attachments, small brush for cracks and tight places, paper towels for windows cleaning, lint-free cloths for dusting, cleaning and window polishing are essential tools usually used in cleaning the inside of your car.

Remove those things that cannot be absorbed by the vacuum like plastic bags, your childs small toys, office papers, pens, bottles, cans, etc. Then, proceed with the use of the vacuum.

After removing the seat covers, vacuum the seats, the dash board, the floor mats and the carpets. It is also advisable to wash seat covers. Let them dry, and then return them to the car. Changing the seat cover is also great for a more refreshing look.

Adding some car fragrance can also help in accessorizing and maintaining good odor in your car.

To maintain cleanliness inside your car, practice to immediately remove any unnecessary things or return the accessories in their proper places after using them. With this, you can be assured of a neat, pleasurable, and a worry and hustle free driving experience.

It is important to take note, however, that your car exteriors cleanliness must also be tantamount to the cleanliness of the interior, for a more desirable appearance.

Evander Klum is a Business Administration graduate who hails from Alabama. He enjoys extreme sports and he is also a car racing fanatic. At present, he works as a marketing manager at an advertising agency in Cleveland.

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Know Everything About Baby Car Safety

Know Everything About Baby Car Safety

Please read this to know more about baby car seats and keeping your baby safe while in the car.

Q. What is the best baby car seat?

The best car seat is the one that matches your baby’s size and weight. It also fits properly in your car and is easily installed.

Q. What types of baby car seats are available?

There are several types of baby car seats such as infant seats, front facing car seats, and convertible seats. There are also combination seats (can face front or rear), booster seats and integrated car seats. With each type of seat there are variations.

Q. Is a five-point harness or a shield safest for my baby?

A five point harness gives your child the greatest protection because it holds your baby tighter in the seat in the event of a crash. A T-Shield or over-the-head restraint allows too much room or can get in the way of chubby tummies and legs. The stalk of the T-Shield can cause serious injury to your baby.

Q. How can I find out how to safely install my baby’s car seat?

All car seats (except most second hand seats) come with printed directions. If after reading the directions you still are not sure how to properly install it. You can call or email the manufacturer. Some police stations and hospitals have assistance programs as well.

Q. Is there a correct way to secure my child in the baby car seat?

Yes, there is a correct way in which to secure your child in his car seat. How you secure your baby in the car seat will likely depend on the age and size of your baby. For children under a year of age they should be placed in rear-facing seats in the center of the rear seat. Older children can sit facing front and their seat are generally placed behind the driver or passenger in order to utilize the shoulder/lap belts.

Q. What is LATCH?

LATCH refers to Lower Anchors and Tethers for Children. It is a baby car seat installation system. The lower hooks are attached between the bottom of the back of the seat and seat itself. The tether piece is a strap made of seat belt material with a clip that secures forward facing baby car seats and prevents excessive movement of the baby’s head in crashes.

Q. What is a Tether?

The tether is a strap made of seat belt material with a clip. It attaches to the clips on the seat and secures front facing baby car seats. In a crash it prevents excessive movement of the seat and the baby’s head, reducing the severity of injuries.

Q. How can I tell when my child is ready to use car seat belts without a booster seat?

Your child will be ready for using the car safety restraint system when s/he can sit all the way back in the seat and the knees can bend comfortably over the edge of the seat. The belt crosses the shoulder between the neck and the arm and the lap belt is low and touches the thighs. Your child must be able to remain seated the whole trip.

Q. Can a baby car seat be used safely in an airplane?

Yes it can. Airlines require children age 2 and under, to be in approved car seats. The seats must be 16 inches or less to fit in the airplane seats. Call ahead and find out if your seat is an approved seat. Once on the plane, the hostess/es, will be able to assist you.

Q. Is it safe for me to use second-hand baby car seats?

Yes it is safe to use second-hand baby car seats provided you do a safety check. Belts and harnesses should not be frayed or cracked. There should be no cracks or tears in the seat cover and the seat should recline easily and stay upright when the baby is seated. Look into the history of the seat, if it has been in a car crash do not buy it, its ability to safely restrain your child has been compromised. If the seat does not come with a manual contact the manufacturer to ensure the seat will be properly installed. If the seat is more than 5 years old do not use it, it may have been in a crash and older baby car seats may not fit in new model cars.

Q. What should I do if my baby car seat is recalled?

In most cases, the manufacturer will provide you with instructions of what to do if baby car seat is recalled. In some cases they will replace it for free they will have you bring it somewhere to get replacement parts also at no cost to you.

Q. Are there baby car seats available for children with special needs?

Children with special needs may require different restraint systems. Discuss your options with your pediatrician.

Q. What is the best type of harness for my baby car seat?

There are four types of harnesses in baby car seats. The six-point harness has two straps at the shoulders, two at the hips and two at the crotch. The five-point harness has two straps at the shoulders, two at the hips and one at the crotch. The t-shield is a padded triangle that latches at the crotch while the overhead shield comes down from over the head and latches at the crotch. The safest harnesses are the five or six-point harnesses. These prevent excessive movement of the baby in crash situations. The t shield and the over-head shield allow for too much room and could cause your baby to be ejected from the car in a crash.

In Conclusion

You can never go wrong if you err on the side of caution when it comes to your baby. The size and weight of your baby as well as your budget will decide what type of seat you will purchase.

My Self : – Daljit Kaur

Details:Below :-

Name :- Daljit Kaur

email Id :- newgensolutions5@gmail.com

Address :- SCF-113, Phase XI, Mohali – 160055.

Punjab. Inida

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